Hideaway Report

Nicaragua

While the country is still poor and its infrastructure in dire need of improvement, it is difficult not to be struck by the optimistic atmosphere of Nicaragua these days. The Pacific town of San Juan del Sur is a two- hour drive from Managua, or around 45 minutes by car from the border of Costa Rica. Despite the potholed streets and rudimentary drainage system, prominent white villas now dot the headland and a construction boom is clearly in progress. It was fear of unregulated development that originally prompted the Ponçon family to purchase its 4,500-acre estate, which lies 10 miles outside of town at the end of a rutted dirt road. Inspired by the celebrated eco-lodge of Lapa Rios in Costa Rica, they decided to create its Nicaraguan equivalent.

The main hacienda of M organ’s Rock is an assembly of airy pavilions surveying a pristine crescent beach. Spider monkeys clamber through the trees; families of pelicans plunge headlong into the bay; while in the background there is the percussion of breaking surf. The resort's name derives from U.S. Sen. John Tyler Morgan of Alabama, who in the 19th Century was the principal proponent of a navigation canal through Nicaragua as opposed to Panama, a project that would have transformed this stretch of coastline and rewritten the country’s history books. But the construction crews went elsewhere, and today the atmosphere that surrounds the lodge still feels almost primeval.

The architect was English expatriate Matthew Falkiner, and his imaginative design clearly strives to follow the contours of the landscape rather than imposing its own agenda. Even the horizon pool has been built to incorporate substantial boulders and appear at least partly natural. Public areas are elegantly low-key, open to the breeze and constructed of natural wood and stone. A spacious lobby leads into an inviting bar, which in turn flows seamlessly into an attractive dining room overlooking the ocean. Despite having lived in Nicaragua for over 35 years, the Ponçon family is of French origin, and this is apparent in both the type and the quality of the cuisine. Salade Niçoise and Nicaraguan bouillabaisse find their way onto the menu along with more regional dishes such as brochetas de lomito con salsa, chimichurri y aguacate. Lamb, chicken, milk, cheese, eggs and sugar, as well as various fruits and vegetables, are produced on the estate’s own farm, while the local fishermen unload their catches on the beach every morning.

Unlike some eco -resorts, whose environmental credentials appear to be chiefly an aspect of their marketing, Morgan’s Rock is genuinely entwined with nature. It is important to realize this in advance, for the concept and layout offer no concessions to the unfit or the elderly. To reach the 15 accommodations from the hacienda, you must first climb a steep dirt trail leading up to a remarkable 350-foot suspension bridge, strung across a forested gorge. (This has been so well-designed that it does not sway even in a strong, gusting wind, and only those most severely afflicted with vertigo are liable to find it a challenge.) Since the lodgings have been built high on the adjacent hillside, a second climb is required to reach them.

The advantages of this elevation are an entrancing Pacific view and a constant ocean breeze. Each cabin has been constructed behind a rear wall of volcanic blocks, which guarantees complete privacy. Once inside, however, you find a spacious pavilion, sheltered beneath a steep roof of local jatoba wood that is supported by massive tree-trunk columns. Aside from a king-size bed, writing desk and sofa, the screened interior has been left uncluttered, the sole decoration being a brightly colored bark painting. To the rear of the cabin, a roomy bath contains twin vanities and a walk-in shower, with reliable hot water provided by a solar panel. There is an additional shower outside, while a covered deck is dominated by a massive daybed that enjoys unimpeded views of the sea. At the end of a three-night incognito stay, our admiration for the design had only increased, thanks to its virtually ideal combination of comfort and genuine proximity to nature.

Activities include riding, bird-watching, hiking, kayaking and excursions aboard a splendid 48-foot wooden motor yacht. Essentially, however, this is an ideal place in which to switch off entirely. It is impossible to call the office because the telephones don’t work

internationally, and it is difficult to check your email as Internet access is by erratic dial-up modem, which is hostage not only to the primitive phone system, but also to regular power outages. So there really is little alternative but to lie back in your hammock and allow yourself to be lulled by the hypnotic rhythm of the sea! We took away many indelible memories from Morgan’s Rock, our whole experience having been enhanced by a delightful and attractive young staff. If they represent the future of Nicaragua, there are indeed many reasons to be optimistic. Bungalow Double, $390, all meals, taxes and service charges included, Jan 6-May
15; Single, $240. Tel/Fax (506) 296-9442.
Email: info@morgansrock.com